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Tampilkan postingan dengan label Artikel Koi English. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label Artikel Koi English. Tampilkan semua postingan

Sabtu, 07 Maret 2015

Mycobacteria (Fish Tuberkulosis)


Nusantara Koi - Fish tuberculosis is caused by a particular group of bacteria known as mycobacteria. This bacteria can be found as free-living environmental organisms, often in the mud and mulm that collects at the bottom of a pond. The Mycobacteria are the smallest organisms that are capable of self-replication. Unlike other bacteria, they lack a cell wall. Three species can be found in Koi; Mycobacterium marinum, M. fortuitum, and M. smegmatus.

The usual means of infection is via the mouth, either by the fish rubbing around and feeding from the substrate, or by eating infected prey or cadavers. The mycobacteria then invade the guy wall, triggering the host's inflammatory response. Alternatively, cuts and abrasions can act as a doorway for infection. They can live in both fresh and salt water, and can survive in the pond environment for 2-4 days outside of the host, but only for approximately 5 hours out of water.

The best temperature for the growth of fish mycobacteria is around 74° F, with an average incubation period before the onset of clinical signs of around six weeks. In the face of an infection, the immune system of the fish will attempt to contain and eliminate the mycobacteria by surrounding it with white blood cells bent on destruction of the invader. These aggregates of cells can be visible to the naked eye on postmortem fish and are called granulomas. They usually appear as gray-white nodules and can be found in a variety of organs. Unfortunately, this defense is often only partially successful. If one such granuloma erodes into a blood vessel, then mycobacteria can be carried to any structure or organ of the body.

Organs affected by Mycobacteria
The liver and kidneys are commonly infected because these are very active organs with a large blood supply. Granulomas develop in these organs. Infective material can then be passed out from the kidneys in the urine, while damage to the kidney itself may affect the ability of the fish to osmoregulate, so these fish develop a buildup of fluid in the body cavity (ascites or dropsy). If the liver is infected, mycobacteria can invade the gall bladder and bile ducts and can then be passed down into the gut along with bile to be eliminated in the feces.

Granulomas in the muscles of the body wall can erode outward to form skin ulcers. Infections in the brain may trigger abnormal behavior, while granulomas and fluid buildup behind the eyes can force them out of the sockets so that they noticeably protrude. Occasionally some mycobacteria will travel in the bloodstream to eventually lodge in one or more bones of the back. These vertebrae are eventually eroded away by the infection to such an extent that they collapse, causing obvious spinal deformities.

Serious damage to the guts and related organs such as the liver and pancreas will affect how the fish is able to digest and utilize its food, thereby causing a gradual wasting of bodily condition. The actual clinical signs that infected fish exhibit will reflect which organs are infected.

The presence of mycobacteria in the environment is an obvious predisposing factor, and they are probably very common. Infected fish will shed large numbers of infective bacteria into their surrounding water and onto the substrate, increasing the likelihood of any in-contact fish developing the disease. Stressors or concurrent disease processes that suppress the fishes' natural immune resistance will also increase the likelihood of infection.

Mycobacteriosis is one of the main reasons why predatory fish should not be fed live feeder fish or "trash" fish. In fact, in addition to the scavenging of corpses, these are ideal ways of transmitting the infection. High stocking densities will increase the risk of infection. In platys (Xiphophorus spp.), the transfer of mycobacteria from a mother's infected ovaries into her unborn young has been demonstrated.

Signs to watch for
All species of fish are potentially susceptible, although this apparent susceptibility can vary. Cyprinids such as goldfish and tench (Tinca tinca), plus anabantids including the fighting fish (Betta spp.), paradise fish (Macropodus spp.), and gouramis (Trichogaster spp.) seem to be particularly susceptible. Aquatic reptiles, amphibians, and crustaceans can also harbor the disease.

Obvious signs of disease can be very variable depending upon where the infection has become established. Some fish will just waste away, while others will develop ascites.

Ulcers may form on the flanks and head. There may be an obvious exophthalmus (protrusion of the eye out of the socket) that can be one-sided, or both eyes may be affected. Sudden deformities of the spin may be seen. On postmortem fish, granulomas may be visible, often in several different organs. Always wear gloves if you are dealing with postmortem fish.Mycobacteriosis is potentially infectious to people and can enter through cuts in the skin.

Treatment
Mycobacteriosis is highly resistant to the usual antimycobacterial medications. Certain antibiotics can be effective, but administering these treatments at an appropriate dose can be difficult and expensive. In addition, the aquarium or pond must be stripped out and thoroughly cleaned, which may include having to dispose of any gravel, plants, and decorations that cannot be reasonably cleaned and sterilized. The fact that it is potentially infectious to people does beg the question of whether we should treat it at all or whether humane euthanasia is the most appropriate action.

There is a wide range of clinical signs linked to this disease, and many parasitic, bacterial, and fungal diseases can mimic mycobacteriosis. In mollies (Poecilia spp.), Flavobacteria can cause multiple internal granulomas.Aeromonas or Vibrio bacterial infections can produce ulceration and signs of septicemia. Ichthyophonus is an internal fungal infection that can produce a progressive wasting condition, as can heavy internal parasite burdens such as with intestinal worms.

Spinal deformities have been linked to a variety of conditions such as vitamin C deficiency in live bearers, such as swordtails (Xiphophorus helleri).

To prevent this infection, quarantining of all new arrivals is a must. Prompt isolation of sick fish, along with the treatment of any problems, will help to eliminate other possibilities. Consider euthanasia of strongly suspected fish. In groups of susceptible fish, mycobacteria can thrive in aquaria, making its presence an important conservation issue with some captive breeding projects.

To avoid Fish Tuberculosis becoming a problem in your pond use KoiZyme.
First reported in France in 1897 by Bataillon, in carp living in a pond that received tuberculous effluent containing sputum and discharges of human tuberculosis. There are numerous Mycobacteria that have been isolated it seems that every scientist wants his or her name on a strain, there is a great body of evidence that these many strains may all be three or four bacterial species all by different names.

In general, Mycobacteria are a gram-positive acid-fast rod.
Two of the Mycobacteria that infect our fish also infect man, that’s Mycobacterium fortuitum and Mycobacterium marinum. In fish, it’s a wasting disease, but granulomas may also be found internally, and sometimes, slow moving, non-hemorrhagic ulcers may form in the dermis, but especially on the gill cover. It's not a fast killer, and it is spread by cannibalism.

Mycobacteriosis can be transmitted to your fish by improperly pasteurized fishmeal.

Resources: Koi Health & Disease Reloaded by Dr. Erik Johnson
Resources: Common Fish Diseases by: Lance Jepson

Sabtu, 25 Oktober 2014

Bone structure of jumbo tosai

Understanding bone structure of the fish.
These two fish are just about same length but they have different body.

You can see the different from the top view and from the side view of the fish

There are showa that have good body and tail height like kohaku. I think the hobbyist can see the different of body line, proportion of the body and body height easier





Top view: kohaku has better body line, the proportion from the shoulder, the back and tail tube.
Looking from the side view, the kohaku has better height at shoulder, center of the body and tail height.
The kohaku has most possibility to have good body conformation when the fish become large.

artikel copy from : Hikarikoifood

Jumat, 24 Oktober 2014

2 Types of Kumonyru

  • The blue skin Kumonyru. Many hobbyist think they will develop sumi and turn all black in the future but instead it will turn lighter and lighter as it grow. The pattern develop from under the blue skin and no one can tell how the pattern is going to be. The pattern will be more stable when the fish mature but it can continue changing.
  • The white/light blue skin kumonyru. This type it is easier to see when it is a tosai because you can see sinking sumi cut across white or light blue skin. It is similar to doitsu shiro utsuri. The sinking sumi will develop sumi in the future but it can disappear and reappear year to year until the fish mature and then it will be more stable but it still can change all its life. The white skin part of the fish will never develop sumi.
sumber : Hikarikoifood

The Importance of Pattern

Nusantara Koi - It’s often stated that pattern is the least significant criteria when assessing the quality of a Koi, we are told that a judge will consider Koi against the 'accepted' rules of judging weighting body shape/structure as most important, followed by skin quality which includes colour depth and quality, finally finishing with the actual pattern of the Koi. For me, this grossly underestimates the importance of pattern and in this article I will explain why.
All Koi are unique, no two have exactly the same pattern and that is one of the intriguing things about Nishikigoi. Throughout this article we will concentrate on, and use, Kohaku as examples. 

From the very first culls of Kohaku the primary consideration, assuming the fry is not deformed, is its pattern. At just 15mm or so in size there are elements of the pattern that are identifiable and that dictate which fry are kept. I have to qualify this statement by saying that I'm now referring to 'serious' breeders, some will produce garden centre mass market Koi that just have to be red and white, arguably that means they have a pattern I guess, but the examples hereafter relate to serious breeders.

The pictures below all show examples of Kohaku patterns which would all be rejected, in my experience, at an early stage, by this I mean within the first 4 months.

The first example would have perhaps survived a couple of culls, but within a couple of months this Koi would likely be rejected, the pattern is far too loose.
There was actually a Koi like this at Momotaro on my earlier visits, a pet of Maeda san, its unique half and half pattern being kept for novelty value.

It doesn't matter how good the pattern is behind the head this Kohaku would be rejected almost immediately because of the bozu (bald) pattern.
As soon as i became apparent that there was no pattern on the left of this Koi, as we look, it would go.
Menkaburi, in my experience, are all rejected at an early stage. If some white is visible on the head, perhaps around the eye or the nose then it may be kept.  
Straight ippon hi with no cuts into the red will always go. Even at a couple of centimetres the breeders are looking for a discernable pattern, the one below wouldn't be considered one.

By the shear fact that all of the above being rejected by breeders so early on and, with all displaying red and white in some pattern, we have to conclude that pattern is quite important, don't we?

For the serious breeder of Kohaku anything resembling any of the above patterns has been rejected from the 'tategoi' by the time they are settled into the Koi house for winter aged around 4 months or so. 

By September the breeders have already rejected 1000s if not 10s of 1000s of fry because they do not conform in terms of pattern standards however, at this time body shape and skin are a largely unknown quantity. The challenge ahead is not about pattern it's about developing the Koi in terms of size and retaining/developing its quality. 

From this point we need to skip forward at least 6 months by which point the best tosai harvested in September have reached 30cm+ and are being sorted for the mud ponds or, alternatively missing the final grade and being offered for sale as tateshita.

At this point in time the breeder is considering the pattern to a lesser degree perhaps, now bone structure, body shape and skin quality are major factors in the breeders decision about how the Koi will develop. 
So, to pull this all back together, how important is pattern.... 

The breeders have had a massive influence over pattern, many non-conforming Koi have been rejected as their prime criteria by the age of 9 months, that's a fact. Were any red and white coloured Koi marketable as Kohaku then they'd be kept. Essentially almost anything getting to market of a reasonable grade from a known breeder has a pattern somewhat conforming to standards.

When it comes to judging, given the above I can fully appreciate and accept that by that point body and skin become more significant, the hobbyist/grower has a direct influence on both. 

So, presented with a pond full of Kohaku, and for the purposes of this discussion we'll assume all are equal in terms of body shape and skin, which one should you choose? 

The answer to that is fairly simple on the face of it, buy the one that appeals to you most, you are the one that's going to have to look at it in your pond. I personally feel the pattern has to attract before considering other aspects of the Koi, don't just buy Koi because it has a show pattern, buy the pattern you like, rather more don't reject a Koi because it doesn't have a show pattern if you like it. 

That’s all well and good but let’s consider that you are buying a Koi with a view to entering it into a Koi show, then selecting a suitable pattern is perhaps rather more complicated than just purchasing the pattern that you like. 

I think that patterns, remember we are just concentrating on Kohaku now, can loosely be classified into 3 groups, standard/traditional, standard/traditional with a unique 'twist' and finally totally unique. 

Let me explain further my reasoning behind this and what each group means: 

Standard/traditional - in this group I would place Kohaku with simple stepped patterns, nidan, sandan, yondan. Each dan would be uncomplicated even rounded shapes, evenly spaced on the body. They would very much be text book examples, something like the example below.
Standard/traditional with a unique 'twist' - whilst the example below is a sandan pattern as it has 3 distinct steps it clearly has very unique elements to it, the maruten marking connected to the shoulder pattern making the 1st dan, the white cut into the 2nd dan by the dorsal.
Totally unique - the Kohaku below is modelled on the 2002 ZNA All Japan Grand Champion owned by Masao Kato. This was a Koi I fell in love with at first sight at the 2001 ZNA show where the Grand Champion, another famous Kohaku known as Sakurahime with it's fairly traditional sandan pattern left me somewhat underwhelmed as the first All Japan Grand Champion I'd seen in the flesh. Another example would be Loulan, the first Koi to have won the All Japan Combined Nishikigoi Show on 2 occasions and a Koi which a number of breeders have stated to me as being the best Koi they've ever seen. 
The significance of the 'sandan' pattern 

The sandan, or 3 stepped, pattern is considered the 'standard' pattern in terms of desirability, why? Well the Japanese like things arranged in groups of 3, this can be found in flower arranging, placement of stones in gardens and in the arrangement of types of bonsai. To take that a step further the first dan should apparently be the 2nd largest, the main dan on the body the largest, finishing with the smallest dan at the tail. Many a breeder has stated to me that the maruten sandan is the perfect pattern. Whilst the above may be true it isn't something that is particularly borne out by results of the major Koi shows in Japan. 

Categorising All Japan Combined Nishikigoi Grand Champions 

The poster below shows the Grand Champions from the first 40 All Japan Shows, click to englarge it. 
As you look through the images how many conform to what we are led to believe are 'standards' in terms of pattern? Just 2 have what would be considered reasonably traditional stepped patterns. 

What is obviously apparent is the number of Kohaku that have completely unique patterns and patterns, if we are led to believe the text book rules relating to red in the eyes, no tail stop, etc, are fundamentally flawed. 

So which sort of pattern should you plump for? 

As I've repeated many times, you should buy what you like. If you are buying for a Koi show outside of Japan, and with non-Japanese judges, then you are safest with a Koi with a pattern that isn't too unique. I've read that judges don't allow their personal tastes to affect their decisions. I have no doubt that is the case at the highest level, i.e. they can't allow pattern to override other criteria just because they like it. However, when it comes down to 2 individual Koi with comparable skin, comparable bodies and the decision has to be made on pattern, both of which are comparable, which is the judge going to go for? This isn't to do with judges credibility, it's just human nature. 

For me personally, show me a pond of Koi in the 'standard/traditional' group and I don't care how good the body or skin is it's just a boring Koi. Show me a Koi with a great pattern, something with interest, something dynamic, something that is truly unique (without breaking fundamental rules) and it's time to get excited. Of course if it's on a skinny body with flat skin then I accept it can't cut it. 

Occasionally, just occasionally, a Koi comes along that seems to have it all, uniquely interesting pattern, amazing skin, and a great body.... 


Penulis : Mark Gardner
Sumber : Niigata-Nishikigoi

Selasa, 21 Oktober 2014

Shiro Sumi Quality

"A" has sooty sumi, it is an average sumi. The sumi of "A" is almost 100% finished but it does not have good kiwa, the color of the center of the scales a lot lighter than the rim of the scales and there are still many unclear kiwa.
"B" has unacceptable quality it has poor kiwa and sashi and the developed sumi has uneven thin texture, sooty black sumi. The sumi of this fish will get darker but the kiwa will not improve as much.
"C" has an All Japan level quality sumi. The sumi on the head and on the shoulder are not quite finished as yet. I think we can not judging the quality of unfinished sumi we have to judge the quality of the sumi itself.

Please down load the the picture and enlarge the picture as large as you can see and compare with other fish.
1. Red arrow........back kiwa, look more define, look like it raise from the skin, look thick.
2. Yellow arrow......front kiwa, look more define, look like it raise from the skin, look thick.
3.White arrow........even sumi texture all the way to the center of the scales, dark blue black color.
Sumber : Hikarikoifood